Naxos
EDP · 2015
Xerjoff
Fragrance allergen
Tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes, usually called OTNE, is a synthetic woody-amber fragrance ingredient, and Iso E Super is one of its trade names. The commercial product is a mixture of isomers, not one molecule. It is one of the highest-volume ingredients in perfumery.
ScenTree says Iso E Super, an OTNE product, is not available in its natural state. It describes it as made from myrcene and 3-methyl-3-penten-2-one in the presence of aluminium chloride, then treated with phosphoric acid to form its ring structure. ScenTree also says it is a mix of more than 20 isomers, including a strongly smelling one called Arborone, at 2 to 5 per cent.
A dry woody smell with an ambergris-like quality. ScenTree lists woody, ambergris, violet flower and cedar notes, and says it can bring a light violet flower note to woody accords.
OTNE is used as a dry woody-amber base material rather than as a top note. ScenTree describes Iso E Super as used in masculine, woody and ambery notes as a woody base, and as stable in perfumes and diverse functional bases. The US National Toxicology Program found OTNE in more than 30 consumer product types.
Named on 12% of the 6,851 perfume ingredient lists we hold (816 perfumes).
SCCS/1459/11 (2012) lists it among established contact allergens in humans, marked + (up to 10 reported positive test reactions). The 2023 EU label listing is a labelling duty, not a concentration restriction; IFRA separately has a Restriction standard for it (2020). In PubChem's summary of ECHA company reports, 89.5% say it may cause an allergic skin reaction. One industry source says Great Britain has not adopted the 2023 expansion.
A list that does not name it does not prove it is absent: brands only have to name it above the threshold.
Share of the perfumes we hold a list for, in each concentration.
Share of the lists naming Woody amber musk that also name each of these.
EDP · 2015
Xerjoff
EDP · 2021
Zara
EDP · 2014
Yves Saint Laurent
EDP · 2015
Dolce & Gabbana
EDP · 2007
Tom Ford
EDP · 2007
Tom Ford
EDP · 2026
Giorgio Armani
EDP · 2018
Tom Ford
EDP · 2019
Zara
EDP · 2014
Bvlgari
EDP · 2007
Tom Ford
EDP · 2020
Versace
A dry woody smell with an ambergris-like quality. ScenTree lists woody, ambergris, violet flower and cedar notes, and says it can bring a light violet note to woody accords.
Synthetic. ScenTree says Iso E Super, an OTNE product, is not available in its natural state. It describes it as made from myrcene and 3-methyl-3-penten-2-one, then treated with phosphoric acid to form its ring structure.
It is the legal label name for OTNE, added by Regulation (EU) 2023/1545. Brands must show it once it exceeds 0.001 per cent in leave-on products or 0.01 per cent in rinse-off ones.
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