Leather Oud is a polarising beast, a love-it-or-hate-it affair that demands confidence and a thick skin. If you can handle its raw, animalic power, it's a masterpiece; if not, you'll be running for the hills.

No. 211 chases Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb's explosive chili-and-leather signature but the blast is flatter and more one-note, missing the original's tobacco depth and running noticeably shorter on the skin.