Orca
EDP · 2015
House of Matriarch
Note Profile
Choya loban is frankincense that has been burnt on purpose and the smoke collected. Indian loban resin is roasted in a sealed pot until it chars and the aromatic smoke is condensed, so the bright citrus-pine top of ordinary olibanum is gone and what remains is smoke over balsamic resin. It smells of the aftermath of burning incense rather than of incense.
Choya Loban smells of the aftermath of burning incense rather than incense itself, all smoke over resin. Alongside the smoke sits a tarry, medicinal sharpness, and under both a broad, balsamic amber warmth survives the fire. A dry, woody floor runs beneath that, with a faint burnt-sugar sweetness and a trace of animal warmth.
Read off the wheel, not a label applied to the note.
Tap a perfume to see where Choya Loban sits in it. The rest of the picture goes grey
Destructive, or dry, distillation of Indian frankincense resin. The resin is heated in a closed clay or iron vessel without steam until it pyrolyses, and the tarry condensate is collected from a gooseneck. Pyrolysis breaks the resin down into phenols, cresols, guaiacol and tar compounds that steam-distilled olibanum does not contain. The product is a dark amber to brown viscous liquid. Choya is the process, not the material: choya raal is dry-distilled sal resin and choya nakh dry-distilled seashell.
A base note and a fixative for dark incense work. It goes into heavy amber accords, ecclesiastical and temple-incense compositions, oud bases and dark-woody structures where ordinary olibanum reads too clean or too bright. It pairs with labdanum, benzoin, opoponax and styrax. It is a traditional backbone of Indian attars such as shamama and hina, and it is dosed in drops.
Perfumers known for using Choya Loban include
Christi Meshell
A selection of reviewed perfumes where Choya Loban appears prominently.
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