Shabaz

Shabaz opens with a curl of incense and a surprising flash of lychee, sweet and slightly floral against pink pepper and bergamot's spicier citrus bite. It is an unusual pairing on paper, incense against fruit, but it works as a way of signalling early on that this is a Middle Eastern-styled composition wearing a modern, slightly fruity top note rather than a purely classical attar opening. The heart is where Shabaz does its most distinctive work. Rose sits at the centre, but it is a dark, earthy rose rather than a soft or powdery one, pushed further into shadow by cypriol (nagarmotha) and a green, herbal sweep of artemisia and clary sage. Geranium adds a rosy-green lift that keeps the whole accord from collapsing into pure murk. Retailers reviewing the fragrance frequently single this stretch out as one of the better rose-oud hearts in the brand's range, and it does read as more considered than the average budget Arabian composition. The base brings the expected agarwood and sandalwood, thickened with patchouli and cedar for a long, dry, woody finish that has real staying power. This is not a fragrance that fades quietly - it is built for people who want a rose-oud statement that lasts from afternoon into evening, and the unisex framing suits its blend of dark florals and resinous wood equally well on any wearer. No specific designer original could be confirmed with confidence for this one, so it is best judged on its own terms: a well-built, incense-forward rose-oud that leans niche in ambition even at a budget price.