Tarantula

Tarantula is built for people who want a perfume to smell like shadow. It opens with resinous pine and a little jasmine and ylang ylang that are quickly overtaken by smoke. Birch tar sits at the centre, with black pepper, clove, saffron and a tobacco edge adding dry spice. The effect is dark and medicinal, close to a workshop or a timber yard, and it is not a polite opening. The base is leather, frankincense and vetiver, backed by patchouli, oud and a soft cashmeran glow. A wearer describes loud faux leather in the early hours that settles to a very dry, woody finish. It lasts well: reports run from six to eight hours up to a full day, and a buyer says it lasts forever. This is a strong, forward scent that works on skin and clothes alike. Autumn and winter evenings are its natural setting, and it fits gothic, alternative and resin-lover wardrobes better than office or daytime wear. Reviews agree that it is distinctive, but they also agree it can be a shock: one wearer calls it a masterpiece and warns it may not be a safe blind buy for anyone who dislikes smoky, antiseptic woods, and a fragrance creator calls it bold, terrifying yet intriguing, and not for the faint of heart. It belongs with the dark leather and incense scents, a niche corner of small-batch perfumery. It is made by hand by Juliet Rose and sold in sizes from a sample to 100 ml.