Impression Patchouli Heart No. I

Patchouli Heart No. I is the herbal, fougere-leaning take on patchouli in the Ostens Impression range, composed by Domitille Michalon Bertier. Wearers say it has little of the head-shop reputation: it is dry, green and resinous, a patchouli that has been cleaned up and given a spine. The opening is spice and smoke: pink pepper, licorice and frankincense. The heart is lavender, immortelle and rosemary, the lavender prominent and soapy to some noses, the immortelle adding a caramel-like sweetness. The base is patchouli with labdanum and a little amber. Not every wearer finds the patchouli the loudest note, since the herbs and incense often come first, but it gives the scent its earthy floor. Performance is a strength. Most voters rate it long lasting or eternal, reports of twelve hours and more are common, and the sillage is moderate to strong. Autumn and winter lead the season votes, spring is a clear third and summer is almost absent. Evening and night-out wear score highest, with leisure next and office use well behind. Opinion is warm. Many love it and call it unique, though some find it too earthy, heavy or masculine, and a few would rather it were sweeter. It suits wearers who like herbal, resinous scents and a bold trail, and sits alongside other lavender and patchouli fougeres on the shelf.