Van Cleef & Arpels 1987 Edt

U ££

Gem

by Roger Pellegrino

Van Cleef & Arpels Gem is an Eau de Toilette launched in 1987, created by Roger Pellegrino. Gem opens with Cardamom, Coriander, Rosewood, and Peach, settles into a heart of Carnation, Orris, Rose, and Iris, and dries down to a base of Vanilla, Civet, Vetiver, and Patchouli. Van Cleef & Arpels's Gem carries an Acquired verdict, a woody-led wear.

This 80s powerhouse is a love-it-or-hate-it affair, a punchy, complex chypre that divides opinions but commands attention. An acquired taste for some, a treasured gem for others, its intensity makes it unforgettable.
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  • Bold
  • Mysterious
  • Sophisticated
  • Sensual
  • Classic
Gem Eau de Toilette bottle

ScentArt

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Profile

Citrus Floral Fruity Green Sweet Warm Woody Earthy Animalic Fresh
Citrus 1%
Floral 26%
Fruity 10%
Green 8%
Sweet 24%
Warm 16%
Woody 15%
Earthy 16%
Animalic 10%
Fresh 7%

Mood Profile

Mood Energising
Calming
Character Playful
Serious
Sentiment Uplifting
Brooding

Accords

Woody
100%
Warm Spicy
98%
Aromatic
87%
Fruity
76%
Sweet
76%

Notes

Top Notes

Plum 18% Peach 16% Rosewood 16% Cardamom 14% Coriander 13% Cypress 12% Myrtle 11%

Heart Notes

Ylang-Ylang 15% Carnation 15% Jasmine 14% Tuberose 13% Clove 13% Rose 11% Iris 10% Orris 10%

Base Notes

Civet 21% Oakmoss 19% Amber 17% Patchouli 16% Vanilla 15% Vetiver 11%

Performance

Longevity
Long (6-10h)
Projection
Strong
Intensity
Strong

Best Seasons

Best For:
Fall
Also Works:
Winter

A cold-weather scent - best worn in autumn and winter.

Best Occasions

Best For:
Date Formal

Its potent projection and enduring nature make it less suitable for office environments or casual wear where subtlety is preferred. However, its complex, sensual character makes it a showstopper for dates and formal events.

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Where to buy

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About

Bold and opulent, Gem opens with a rich burst of plum and peach, spiced intensely with cardamom and coriander, set against a classic rosewood backdrop. The heart blooms into a full-bodied floral arrangement of iris, rose, and jasmine, deepened by clove and carnation. It dries down to a mysterious, animalic base of civet and oakmoss, intertwined with earthy patchouli, warm amber, and a hint of sweet vanilla. It's a heady, complex ride from start to finish.

Drawn from community reviews and editor-reviewed before publishing on . See our methodology and disclosure policy.