Van Cleef & Arpels 1987 EDT

F ££ Acquired

Gem

by Roger Pellegrino

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Van Cleef & Arpels Gem is an Eau de Toilette launched in 1987, created by Roger Pellegrino. Gem opens with Myrtle, Cypress, Rosewood, and Cardamom, settles into a heart of Rose, Jasmine, Iris, and Iris, and dries down to a base of Amber, Vetiver, Patchouli, and Oakmoss. Van Cleef & Arpels's Gem carries an Acquired verdict, a sweet-led wear.

This 80s powerhouse is a love-it-or-hate-it affair, a punchy, complex chypre that divides opinions but commands attention. An acquired taste for some, a treasured gem for others, its intensity makes it unforgettable.
What our verdicts mean →
  • Bold
  • Mysterious
  • Sophisticated
  • Sensual
  • Classic
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Gem Eau de Toilette bottle

Scent Profile

Composition

Timeline

Showing: Overall Blend

Top, heart and base are the brand's own listing, not a timing claim - the industry classifies a note by its character as much as by how fast it fades. Each curve here is modelled from that material's own volatility, so groups can overlap when a house lists long-lasting materials in its heart.

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Performance & Mood

Performance

Longevity
Long (6-10h)
Projection
Strong
Intensity
Strong

Mood

Mood Energising
Calming
Character Playful
Serious
Sentiment Uplifting
Brooding

When To Wear

Best Seasons

Best For:
Fall
Also Works:
Winter

A cold-weather scent - best worn in autumn and winter.

Best Occasions

Best For:
Date Formal

Its potent projection and enduring nature make it less suitable for office environments or casual wear where subtlety is preferred. However, its complex, sensual character makes it a showstopper for dates and formal events.

Declarable allergens

We derive these from the materials behind this fragrance's notes, not from the bottle. Each one is likely, not confirmed. The list is partial - the box can name others.

In standard patch-test panels

  • Geraniol from Rose
  • Oakmoss Evernia prunastri extract from Oakmoss

Other declarable allergens

  • Clove Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Oil from Clove
  • Vanillin from Vanilla
  • Ylang-ylang Cananga Odorata Flower Extract from Ylang-Ylang

The large name is the everyday one. The small name is the INCI form on the box, so you can compare the two. Reactions differ between people. A patch-test panel is not a ranking of risk. How we derive this

About

Bold and opulent, Gem opens with a rich burst of plum and peach, spiced intensely with cardamom and coriander, set against a classic rosewood backdrop. The heart blooms into a full-bodied floral arrangement of iris, rose, and jasmine, deepened by clove and carnation. It dries down to a mysterious, animalic base of civet and oakmoss, intertwined with earthy patchouli, warm amber, and a hint of sweet vanilla. It's a heady, complex ride from start to finish.

Similar

Compare & Pair

Layer

Wear two at once. See what layers well with Gem Eau de Toilette - the blends worth trying, and how each one scores.

Complement

Round out the rotation. See what complements Gem Eau de Toilette - fragrances that pair with it, worn side by side.

Where to buy

Prices for the United Kingdom ·

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Drawn from community reviews and editor-reviewed before publishing on . See our methodology and disclosure policy.