Rouge Smoking Extrait is a divisive beast. For some, it's a sexier, darker cherry ode, a true 'beast mode' scent. For others, it's a synthetic, screechy misstep, a 'hot mess' of ambroxan that falls short of the original.

Perfume Parlour's budget read of Sospiro Il Padrino, the boozy amber-vanilla in the Khamrah lineage. It nails the rum-and-amaretto opening over a warm amber-vanilla-resin base, though it reads a shade sweeter and simpler and wears lighter than the long-lasting niche original.