Desert Bean

Desert Bean goes straight for one of the big sweet-oud crowd-pleasers. It opens warm and arresting, with a sharp, almost burnt-sugar saffron and bergamot setting the stage, while rich tonka and oud hum in the background from the very first spray. The heart brings a dark Bulgarian rose woven through woody oud, plush and slightly smoky, the sweet-spicy spine the original is built on. The drydown is where it settles in for the long haul: gooey tonka and sugar cane over warm amber, white musk and a touch of oakmoss, a sweet, cosy, gourmand-leaning finish. Where the Montale is a true projection and longevity beast that fills a room for hours and clings for days, this dupe is a little flatter and simpler through the middle and, while still a strong performer for the money, gives up some of that nuclear reach and staying power. Best in autumn and winter, it is a bold evening and date scent that can anchor cosy days too - a recognisable, generous budget stand-in for Arabians Tonka.