Olympea

Rabanne's Olympea made its name with an unusual salty-vanilla accord layered under jasmine and ginger lily, a combination that reads sensual and modern rather than classically gourmand. SMEL.' version opens on the same jasmine and ginger lily before the signature salt-vanilla heart takes over, closing on sandalwood, ambergris and cashmere wood. The dupe captures the broad sweet-salty concept well, but the salt facet - the note that gives Olympea its distinctive mineral edge - comes through softer and less textured, so the vanilla dominates more than in the original's carefully balanced accord. The floral opening is also thinner, fading faster into the vanilla base than Rabanne's more layered composition. It still delivers a warm, feminine, crowd-pleasing scent at a fraction of the price, best worn in cooler months for dates and confident casual outings where its sweet-salty character can stand out.