What it smells like
The gravitational centre of the sweet family. Vanillin, ethyl vanillin, caramel furanones and the coumarin edge of tonka: warm, soft, edible and extremely stable. That stability is why sweetness is the cheapest way to make a fragrance last.
Vanilla is sweet and soft. Amber is sweet and resinous. Amber carries a dryness and a hint of smoke that vanilla does not.
Notes that load on it
Notes from our catalogue whose position on this facet is 0.40 or higher, strongest first. A note is not filed under one facet: it carries a value on all 34 at once, and these are the ones where this axis is doing real work.
-
Vanillin
Powdery
Lactonic
Base · ~36h
Molecule
24
-
Ethylvanillin
Powdery
Coffee & Cacao
Base · ~30h
Molecule
-
Sugar
Heart · ~4h
Prepared
71
-
Ultravanil™
Smoky
Base · ~48h
Molecule
1
-
Molasses
Honey
Base · ~30h
Prepared
4
-
Gummy Candies
Fruity
Heart · ~4h
Prepared
1
-
Syrup
Honey
Base · ~24h
Prepared
1
-
Decalepis Hamiltonii
Honey
Base · ~18h
Botanical
-
Icing Pink
Heart · ~5h
Prepared
-
Vanilla
Base · ~48h
Botanical
12,060
-
Frosting [Glacé]
Powdery
Lactonic
Heart · ~8h
Prepared
-
Sugar Cookie
Lactonic
Base · ~12h
Prepared
-
Caramel
Base · ~48h
Prepared
1,411
-
Maple
Smoky
Dry Wood
Base · ~48h
Prepared
39
-
Meringue
Powdery
Lactonic
Base · ~12h
Prepared
39
-
Salted Caramel
Lactonic
Mineral
Base · ~36h
Prepared
35
-
Cookie
Nutty
Base · ~16h
Prepared
11
-
Crème Brûlée
Lactonic
Base · ~16h
Prepared
1
-
Bonbon
Fruity
Base · ~12h
Prepared
-
French Vanilla
Lactonic
Base · ~36h
Prepared
Materials that carry it
Real substances, each keyed by its CAS registry number, that an external perfumery vocabulary publishes with a term meaning this facet outright. This is the layer that makes a facet checkable against something outside our own database.
| Material | CAS | Terms | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| zinc1850690 | CAS 13494-06-9 | caramellic, maple, sugar, sweet | |
| 3-methylcyclopentane-1,2-dione | CAS 765-70-8 | caramellic, maple, sugar, sweet | |
| 3,5-dimethyl-1,2-cyclopentanedione | CAS 13494-07-0 | caramellic, maple, sugar, sweet | |
| Abhexone | CAS 698-10-2 | caramellic, maple, sweet | |
| levulinic acid | CAS 123-76-2 | caramellic, sweet, vanilla | |
| vanillyl alcohol | CAS 498-00-0 | caramellic, sweet, vanilla | |
| geranyl crotonate | CAS 56172-46-4 | caramellic, maple, sweet | |
| maltol isobutyrate | CAS 65416-14-0 | caramellic, sugar, sweet | |
| vanillin isobutyrate | CAS 20665-85-4 | caramellic, sweet, vanilla | |
| 5-methylfurfural | CAS 620-02-0 | caramellic, maple, sweet | |
| 1,2-cyclohexanedione | CAS 765-87-7 | caramellic, maple, sweet | |
| 4,6-dimethyl-2h-pyran-2-one | CAS 675-09-2 | caramellic, sugar, sweet | |
| 3-ethylcyclopentane-1,2-dione | CAS 13494-08-1 | caramellic, maple, sweet | |
| 4-hydroxy-5-methylfuran-3-one | CAS 19322-27-1 | caramellic, sugar, sweet | |
| 3-ethyl-2-hydroxycyclopent-2-en-1-one | CAS 21835-01-8 | caramellic, maple, sweet | |
| 4-hydroxy-2,3-dimethyl-2H-furan-5-one | CAS 28664-35-9 | caramellic, maple, sweet | |
| 5-ethyl-4-hydroxy-2-methylfuran-3-one | CAS 27538-09-6 | caramellic, maple, sweet | IFRA |
| 2-hydroxy-3,4,5-trimethylcyclopent-2-en-1-one | CAS 109682-87-3 | caramellic, maple, sweet | |
| 3-ethyl-2-hydroxy-4-methylcyclopent-2-en-1-one | CAS 42348-12-9 | caramellic, maple, sweet | |
| 3-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde;2-methylpropanoate | CAS 188417-26-7 | caramellic, sweet, vanilla | |
| (2E)-1-(1-ethoxyethoxy)-3,7-dimethylocta-2,6-diene | CAS 38019-89-5 | caramellic, sweet, vanilla | |
| cis-2-cyclopenten-1-one, 2-hydroxy-3,4,5-trimethyl | CAS 125476-24-6 | caramellic, maple, sweet | |
| maltol | CAS 118-71-8 | caramellic, sweet | |
| furaneol | CAS 3658-77-3 | caramellic, sweet | IFRA |
| furfural | CAS 98-01-1 | caramellic, sweet | IFRA |
| vanillin | CAS 121-33-5 | sweet, vanilla | Declarable |
| Cyclotene | CAS 80-71-7 | caramellic, maple | |
| piperonal | CAS 120-57-0 | sweet, vanilla | |
| zingerone | CAS 122-48-5 | sweet, vanilla | |
| damascenone | CAS 23696-85-7 | sugar, sweet | Declarable IFRA |
Showing 30 of 1,103. The full set ships with the published standard rather than being paginated here.
Declarable means the substance appears in Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, so it has to be named on the ingredient list once it passes a concentration threshold. IFRA means an IFRA Standard restricts or prohibits its use. Both are facts about the substance, not about any fragrance: a perfume can contain a declarable material below the threshold and never print it, and a restricted material used within its limit is used correctly.
The source also supplies no common name for a large share of materials, so those display as a bare registry number and are ranked last. They are kept because they are real evidence: dropping them would make the vocabulary look better described than it is.
Anchor terms
A facet on its own is just a word we chose. An anchor is what makes it checkable: a term in an external, independently maintained vocabulary of odour descriptions, built for perfumery materials rather than for us. The material list above is drawn from the direct terms only, because a partial term corroborates too weakly to stand as evidence on its own.
- caramellic
- maple
- sugar
- sweet
- vanilla
- anise, licorice
- coumarinic
- licorice
- praline
- tonka
The rest of Sweet & Gourmand
The other facets in this family. A note can load on any of them at the same time as this one, so they are neighbours rather than alternatives.