Nostos is Etat Libre d'Orange playing it safe, delivering a powerful oud-and-leather scent that’s a dead ringer for many others. It's a love-or-hate affair, with its extreme projection and divisive "burnt rubber" or "hospital" notes polarising opinion.

Amber Opulence chases Roja Dove's Amber Aoud, the professor of perfume's £395 amber-oud icon, at a fraction of the price. It opens with the same bergamot-rose brightness before settling into oud, amber and patchouli, though the oud reads sweeter and less resinous than Roja's smoky original. A confident, accessible route into the amber-oud category for anyone priced out of the real thing.