Divisive and dialled-back, Carolina Herrera's 212 Sexy Men promises allure but often delivers a softer, powdery vanilla with an opening that some find challenging. Reformulations seem to have dulled its spark, but for others, it's still a surprisingly smooth, intimate classic.

A budget run at Versace Eros Flame - the bittersweet pepper-and-citrus opening over a vanilla drydown is here, just rendered flatter and quieter. The bones of Flame's bold, mature character survive; its dense projection does not.