Sultan Vetiver is pure Marmite: you'll either adore its intense, earthy, almost dirty vetiver heart, or recoil from what some call musty, mouldy, or even 'toilet freshener'. This isn't a safe blind buy, so sample before committing to its unapologetic character.

A budget take on Margiela's beloved Jazz Club. Genre Meeting captures the warm, boozy-sweet heart of tobacco and vanilla bean lifted by lemon and pink pepper, but without the original's rum note the boozy lift is gentler and the whole thing reads a little sweeter and flatter, the smoky-leather depth not quite as rounded.