Shem-el-Nessim

Shem-el-Nessim is Arabic for smelling the breeze, a name taken from a summer festival on the Nile. The perfume dates from 1906 and was brought back in 2009 from the original formula, with Florentine orris at its heart. It is the most powdery of the old Grossmith trio and the one most often set beside Guerlain's L'Heure Bleue. The opening is sharp and green: a dense, spicy neroli with crisp bergamot and a flick of peppery geranium. Rose and jasmine sit behind it, pale and sweet, ylang-ylang adds a buttery softness, and within the hour a soft orris powder settles over everything. A few wearers find the first minutes harsh and the powder heavy, but most say it eases quickly into a warm, plush floral. The drydown turns to heliotrope with a marzipan sweetness, then creamy vanilla and sandalwood, with patchouli, musk and cedar kept well in the background. On many skins the powder fades and a smooth neroli and vanilla cream is left. It is dry-sweet rather than gourmand, and it feels expensive. It lasts well, a full day for many wearers, although some find it fades within a couple of hours. Reports of projection split too: some call it strong, others keep it close to the skin. It suits autumn and winter best, with spring second, and it belongs to evenings and special occasions more than the office. This is an unashamedly vintage perfume. It is regal, formal and old-world, and lovers of powdery classics will recognise its lineage. Anyone used to clean, fresh modern scents may find it dated. At a luxury price it is best tried on skin first.