Hasu-no-Hana

Hasu-no-Hana dates from 1888, and the Eau de Parfum is a careful recreation of that Victorian formula. The name means lotus flower, but there is no lotus note to find. The impression of a pale water flower comes from rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang instead, and the tone is far darker and more grown-up than the name suggests. The opening is bright and bittersweet: bergamot and bitter orange with a faint scratchy edge that settles within minutes. The heart is dense and creamy. Ylang-ylang is the most obvious flower, with jasmine and rose blended into it, while iris adds a dusty, powdery shadow that lasts longer than the other flowers. Many wearers also catch a touch of clove or spice. The base is where the chypre shows itself. Oakmoss and patchouli give a damp, mossy, earthy depth, tonka bean sweetens it into something almost almondy, and vetiver, cedar and a little sandalwood keep it dry. Wearers compare the warmth of the finish to Shalimar, and the chypre character to Mitsouko, though it is sweeter and less bitter than most classic chypres. Performance is strong. It lasts for a full day for most wearers, with firm projection that softens through the evening. It is at its best in autumn and cool weather, for dressed-up evenings, and men and women wear it equally. It is an old-fashioned perfume in the best sense, and a deliberate, expensive choice for anyone who loves a vintage-style chypre.