Saffron Rose

Saffron Rose is the modern rose-and-oud member of Grossmith's Black Label line, launched in 2012. The brand calls it a complex woody amber that pairs saffron and rose with spicy cinnamon, and that is a fair summary of what a wearer meets first. The opening is a rich, petal-like rose followed closely by a warm, earthy saffron, with cinnamon adding spice. A few noses find the saffron sharp or slightly metallic. The heart turns smoky and resinous: tobacco, myrrh and a palatable oud that gives a leathery undertone without taking over. Some wearers cannot find the oud at all, and the tobacco divides opinion, because it reads as warm and sweet to some and as cigarette ash to others. The base is castoreum, labdanum, sandalwood, amber and guaiac wood. The castoreum is an animalic touch that some find restrained and others find dirty, and it is where people tend to decide whether they love the scent. As the scent settles, the rose comes back, more powdery, over a sweet amber skin scent. Staying power is very long and the sillage is strong. It suits autumn and winter best, evenings and nights out ahead of the office, although some wearers spray it all year. Most voters love it, but a minority dislike it, and most call it overpriced. A reviewer places it near Jo Malone's Velvet Rose and Oud. Try it on skin before buying.