Serge Lutens 2023 EDP

U ££ Acquired

Écrin de Fumée

by Christopher Sheldrake

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Serge Lutens Écrin de Fumée is an Eau de Parfum launched in 2023, created by Christopher Sheldrake. Écrin de Fumée opens with Smoke and Rum, settles into a heart of Cacao Pod and Tobacco, and dries down to a base of Woody Notes and Frankincense. Serge Lutens's Écrin de Fumée carries an Acquired verdict, a fruity-led wear.

This one's a rum-soaked, chocolate-dusted humidor in a bottle. A divisive concoction that some hail as a masterpiece of boozy, smoky cacao, others find too challenging or just plain old-fashioned. Definitely not for the faint of heart or those seeking a sweet, simple gourmand.
What our verdicts mean →
  • Bold
  • Confident
  • Mysterious
  • Sensual
  • Warm
£90.90 at Notino 50ml Check price on → Check prices ↓
Écrin de Fumée Eau de Parfum bottle

Scent Profile

Composition

Timeline

Showing: Overall Blend
Topas listed
Rum53%
Smoke47%
Heartas listed
Cacao Pod58%
Tobacco42%
Baseas listed
Woody Notes60%
Frankincense40%

Top, heart and base are the brand's own listing, not a timing claim - the industry classifies a note by its character as much as by how fast it fades. Each curve here is modelled from that material's own volatility, so groups can overlap when a house lists long-lasting materials in its heart.

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Performance & Mood

Performance

Longevity
Long (6-10h)
Projection
Moderate
Intensity
Strong

Mood

Mood Energising
Calming
Character Playful
Serious
Sentiment Uplifting
Brooding

When To Wear

Best Seasons

Best For:
Fall Winter

A cold-weather scent. The boozy rum opening, dark cacao heart, and dry woody-smoky drydown read thick and warm on cool skin, making autumn and winter the natural home; it is too heavy and sweet for spring or summer.

Best Occasions

Best For:
Date Formal

Its rich, boozy, smoky-cacao character is poorly suited to the office or sport, but its dark, mature allure shines on dates and cool-weather formal evenings, with casual winter wear also viable. Some report only moderate longevity and projection for a scent of this profile.

About

Écrin de Fumée opens with a rich, dark wave of rum, quickly transitioning to a dominant, unsweetened cacao. Smoke and tobacco notes weave through, adding depth and a slightly dry, woody edge. An intoxicating blend that evokes a mature, opulent atmosphere, with hints of a luxurious jazz club or a well-stocked cigar lounge.

Similar

Compare & Pair

Layer

Wear two at once. See what layers well with Écrin de Fumée Eau de Parfum - the blends worth trying, and how each one scores.

Complement

Round out the rotation. See what complements Écrin de Fumée Eau de Parfum - fragrances that pair with it, worn side by side.

Where to buy

Prices for the United Kingdom · · checked 2 October

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Drawn from community reviews and editor-reviewed before publishing on . See our methodology and disclosure policy.