Bois d'Ascese
Eau de Parfum
Naomi Goodsir
Dark, artistic niche perfumes from Australian designer Naomi Goodsir, crafted in Grasse with a focus on textured, atmospheric compositions.
Naomi Goodsir is a fragrance brand created by Australian fashion and accessories designer Naomi Goodsir, who built her reputation over more than a decade making couture hats and headpieces after studying fashion design in Sydney. Her perfume line is developed in collaboration with creative director Renaud Coutaudier and produced in France, with the fragrances made and hand packed near Grasse on the Côte d’Azur, where she lives and works. The first perfumes, including Bois d'Ascese and Cuir Velours, appeared in the early 2010s and established the house as a small, independently minded operation focused on artistic compositions rather than mass appeal.
The brand works with a tight circle of high-profile perfumers such as Isabelle Doyen, Julien Rasquinet and Bertrand Duchaufour. Each eau de parfum is centered on a key raw material and often explores darker, more atmospheric themes, as seen in releases like Nuit de Bakélite, Or du Serail and the 2021 launch Corpus Equus, which took eight years to complete and interprets the smell of a horse, specifically Goodsir’s own favored steed. This emphasis on complex, sometimes challenging ideas has given the line a reputation among enthusiasts for being selective, small scale and strongly auteur-driven, with an aesthetic that clearly reflects Goodsir’s avant-garde background in couture headwear.
Naomi Goodsir’s perfumes are typically described by retailers and reviewers as using noble materials and favoring textured, nuanced structures over clean simplicity. The collection is compact, with only a handful of fragrances listed on databases such as Fragrantica and Parfumo, and distribution is mainly through specialist perfumeries rather than mainstream chains. This keeps the brand within the niche and indie sphere, appealing most to wearers who seek characterful, slightly offbeat compositions and are comfortable with scent profiles that lean smoky, leathery, resinous or otherwise left of center.
A niche, luxury house known for smoky woods compositions.
The early releases such as Bois d'Ascese and Cuir Velours established a focus on smoky woods, leather and tobacco, which defined the house identity. Subsequent launches like Or du Serail and Nuit de Bakélite broadened the palette into boozy, resinous and bitter green floral territory while retaining the same moody style. With Corpus Equus in 2021, created with Bertrand Duchaufour after an eight year development, the brand doubled down on conceptual themes, exploring animalic and abstract interpretations of a horse scent rather than chasing market trends. Overall the evolution has been about deepening a specific aesthetic rather than diversifying into fresher, safer or more commercial directions.
Naomi Goodsir is for people who want unapologetically characterful niche perfume and are bored by clean, generic releases. If you do not enjoy smoke, leather, resins or slightly unsettling florals, you will struggle with this line, but if you do, it is one of the more interesting small houses to explore.