Woody & Earthy

Smoky

Smoke, tar, burnt wood, birch

smoky 79 notes 96 materials 4 anchors

What it smells like

Guaiacol and cresols, the products of burning. The facet runs from the gentle incense smoke of a church through to the creosote and tar of birch tar. Birch tar is also the origin of most leather accords.

Where it stops

Smoky is the direct parent of Leather. Leather was historically tanned with birch tar, so the two share their chemistry as well as their history.

Smells most like

smoke - and in the same register, birch tar, coal tar.

Notes that load on it

Notes from our catalogue whose position on this facet is 0.40 or higher, strongest first. A note is not filed under one facet: it carries a value on all 34 at once, and these are the ones where this axis is doing real work.

Materials that carry it

Real substances, each keyed by its CAS registry number, that an external perfumery vocabulary publishes with a term meaning this facet outright. This is the layer that makes a facet checkable against something outside our own database.

Materials carrying this facet, with registry number, source terms and regulatory status
Material CAS Terms Status
propylparaben CAS 94-13-3 burnt, smoky
phenyl acetate CAS 122-79-2 burnt, smoky
ethyl vanillate CAS 617-05-0 burnt, smoky
dibenzyl disulfide CAS 150-60-7 burnt, smoky
furfuryl mercaptan CAS 98-02-2 burnt, smoky
thymol methyl ether CAS 1076-56-8 burnt, smoky
2-isopropylphenol CAS 88-69-7 burnt, smoky
2-methoxy-4-methylphenol CAS 93-51-6 burnt, smoky IFRA
4-allyl-2,6-dimethoxyphenol CAS 6627-88-9 burnt, smoky
1-ethyl-1h-pyrrole-2-carbaldehyde CAS 2167-14-8 burnt, smoky
maltol CAS 118-71-8 burnt
furaneol CAS 3658-77-3 burnt IFRA
guaiacol CAS 90-05-1 smoky
lepidine CAS 491-35-0 burnt
carvacrol CAS 499-75-2 smoky
isomaltol CAS 3420-59-5 burnt
kahweofuran CAS 26693-24-3 smoky
thioacetic acid CAS 507-09-5 burnt
whiskey lactone CAS 39212-23-2 burnt
citronellic acid CAS 502-47-6 smoky
dimethyl sulfone CAS 67-71-0 burnt
o-tolyl disulfide CAS 4032-80-8 burnt
diphenyl disulfide CAS 882-33-7 burnt
dipropyl disulfide CAS 629-19-6 burnt
maltol isobutyrate CAS 65416-14-0 burnt
pyrazineethanethiol CAS 35250-53-4 burnt
alpha-d-xylopyranose CAS 58-86-6 smoky
cyclododecyl acetate CAS 6221-92-7 smoky
furfuryl thioacetate CAS 13678-68-7 burnt
benzyl methyl sulfide CAS 766-92-7 burnt

Showing 30 of 96. The full set ships with the published standard rather than being paginated here.

Reading the two flags

Declarable means the substance appears in Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, so it has to be named on the ingredient list once it passes a concentration threshold. IFRA means an IFRA Standard restricts or prohibits its use. Both are facts about the substance, not about any fragrance: a perfume can contain a declarable material below the threshold and never print it, and a restricted material used within its limit is used correctly.

The source also supplies no common name for a large share of materials, so those display as a bare registry number and are ranked last. They are kept because they are real evidence: dropping them would make the vocabulary look better described than it is.

Anchor terms

A facet on its own is just a word we chose. An anchor is what makes it checkable: a term in an external, independently maintained vocabulary of odour descriptions, built for perfumery materials rather than for us. The material list above is drawn from the direct terms only, because a partial term corroborates too weakly to stand as evidence on its own.

Direct Terms that mean this facet outright
  • burnt
  • burnt,smoky
  • smoky
  • tarry
Partial Terms that lean this way but also load elsewhere
  • incense
  • roasted

The rest of Woody & Earthy

The other facets in this family. A note can load on any of them at the same time as this one, so they are neighbours rather than alternatives.

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