What it smells like
Guaiacol and cresols, the products of burning. The facet runs from the gentle incense smoke of a church through to the creosote and tar of birch tar. Birch tar is also the origin of most leather accords.
Smoky is the direct parent of Leather. Leather was historically tanned with birch tar, so the two share their chemistry as well as their history.
Notes that load on it
Notes from our catalogue whose position on this facet is 0.40 or higher, strongest first. A note is not filed under one facet: it carries a value on all 34 at once, and these are the ones where this axis is doing real work.
-
Lapsang Souchong Tea
Leather
Heart · ~8h
Prepared
5
-
Charred Wood
Dry Wood
Leather
Base · ~30h
Prepared
-
BBQ
Vanilla
Animalic
Base · ~12h
Animal
-
Choya Ral
Amber
Leather
Creamy Wood
Base · ~28h
Prepared
-
Cigarette
Tobacco & Hay
Mineral
Base · ~24h
Prepared
-
Mezcal
Dry Wood
Citrus
Heart · ~6h
Prepared
-
Pine Tar
Amber
Base · ~30h
Prepared
-
Smoked Leather
Leather
Base · ~36h
Prepared
-
Smoke
Dry Wood
Base · ~48h
Prepared
226
-
Burning Wood
Dry Wood
Base · ~48h
Prepared
5
-
Choya Nakh
Aquatic
Animalic
Mineral
Base · ~36h
Prepared
-
Fossilised Amber
Amber
Leather
Dry Wood
Base · ~36h
Mineral
-
Grass Tree
Amber
Dry Wood
Honey
Base · ~24h
Botanical
-
Inkstick
Animalic
Mineral
Base · ~9h
Abstract
-
Peaty Whisky
Boozy
Earthy
Base · ~22h
Prepared
-
Smoked Wine
Phenolic
Fruity
Heart · ~8h
Prepared
1
-
Choya Loban
Phenolic
Amber
Base · ~24h
Prepared
-
Paprika
Warm Spice
Heart · ~6h
Botanical
16
-
Bacon
Base · ~14h
Prepared
-
Fire
Phenolic
Amber
Dry Wood
Base · ~24h
Abstract
Materials that carry it
Real substances, each keyed by its CAS registry number, that an external perfumery vocabulary publishes with a term meaning this facet outright. This is the layer that makes a facet checkable against something outside our own database.
| Material | CAS | Terms | Status |
|---|---|---|---|
| propylparaben | CAS 94-13-3 | burnt, smoky | |
| phenyl acetate | CAS 122-79-2 | burnt, smoky | |
| ethyl vanillate | CAS 617-05-0 | burnt, smoky | |
| dibenzyl disulfide | CAS 150-60-7 | burnt, smoky | |
| furfuryl mercaptan | CAS 98-02-2 | burnt, smoky | |
| thymol methyl ether | CAS 1076-56-8 | burnt, smoky | |
| 2-isopropylphenol | CAS 88-69-7 | burnt, smoky | |
| 2-methoxy-4-methylphenol | CAS 93-51-6 | burnt, smoky | IFRA |
| 4-allyl-2,6-dimethoxyphenol | CAS 6627-88-9 | burnt, smoky | |
| 1-ethyl-1h-pyrrole-2-carbaldehyde | CAS 2167-14-8 | burnt, smoky | |
| maltol | CAS 118-71-8 | burnt | |
| furaneol | CAS 3658-77-3 | burnt | IFRA |
| guaiacol | CAS 90-05-1 | smoky | |
| lepidine | CAS 491-35-0 | burnt | |
| carvacrol | CAS 499-75-2 | smoky | |
| isomaltol | CAS 3420-59-5 | burnt | |
| kahweofuran | CAS 26693-24-3 | smoky | |
| thioacetic acid | CAS 507-09-5 | burnt | |
| whiskey lactone | CAS 39212-23-2 | burnt | |
| citronellic acid | CAS 502-47-6 | smoky | |
| dimethyl sulfone | CAS 67-71-0 | burnt | |
| o-tolyl disulfide | CAS 4032-80-8 | burnt | |
| diphenyl disulfide | CAS 882-33-7 | burnt | |
| dipropyl disulfide | CAS 629-19-6 | burnt | |
| maltol isobutyrate | CAS 65416-14-0 | burnt | |
| pyrazineethanethiol | CAS 35250-53-4 | burnt | |
| alpha-d-xylopyranose | CAS 58-86-6 | smoky | |
| cyclododecyl acetate | CAS 6221-92-7 | smoky | |
| furfuryl thioacetate | CAS 13678-68-7 | burnt | |
| benzyl methyl sulfide | CAS 766-92-7 | burnt |
Showing 30 of 96. The full set ships with the published standard rather than being paginated here.
Declarable means the substance appears in Annex III of the EU Cosmetics Regulation, so it has to be named on the ingredient list once it passes a concentration threshold. IFRA means an IFRA Standard restricts or prohibits its use. Both are facts about the substance, not about any fragrance: a perfume can contain a declarable material below the threshold and never print it, and a restricted material used within its limit is used correctly.
The source also supplies no common name for a large share of materials, so those display as a bare registry number and are ranked last. They are kept because they are real evidence: dropping them would make the vocabulary look better described than it is.
Anchor terms
A facet on its own is just a word we chose. An anchor is what makes it checkable: a term in an external, independently maintained vocabulary of odour descriptions, built for perfumery materials rather than for us. The material list above is drawn from the direct terms only, because a partial term corroborates too weakly to stand as evidence on its own.
- burnt
- burnt,smoky
- smoky
- tarry
- incense
- roasted
The rest of Woody & Earthy
The other facets in this family. A note can load on any of them at the same time as this one, so they are neighbours rather than alternatives.