Deliberate chases Estee Lauder Knowing's powdery rose-chypre. The aldehydic rose-and-tuberose opening over earthy patchouli and a mossy base reads true to the brief, but as a budget dupe it lands flatter, with the vintage original's animalic depth and 8-plus-hour wear softened.

This isn't a shy scent, darling. Paloma Picasso is a bold, take-no-prisoners chypre that screams 80s glam, but in the best possible way. Love it or loathe it, you won't forget it, and you certainly won't smell like anyone else in the room. Some find it a bit much, but if you're after 'dark, sensual, and a bit raunchy', this is your girl.